Initial Cost of the Horse: This all depends on what area you live in and what you are purchasing the horse for. The price could range anywhere from $500.00 on up into the thousands. For a trained horse that will be used for leisure trail riding you can expect to spend around $1,500-$3,000.

Transportation of Your Horse: If you purchase your horse locally and you do not have access to a trailer, ask the seller if they will transport for you. Sometimes they will include this in the cost or they will charge an extra fee. If you are looking into long distance hauling the shipping costs will vary depending on the carrier and can range from $.25 to $1.00 per mile. Shop around to find the most cost effective but be sure to do your research. Get referrals and find out their policy regarding stall space in trailer, watering, feeding and layover schedule.

Stabling: Will your horse be in your backyard or will you be boarding? If you’re a backyard owner you will be responsible for feeding 2-3 times per day. You will be purchasing your own hay and a bale of hay will cost approximately $8-$20 per bale. Feeding portions are about 5-7 pounds per feeding and one horse will go through approximately one bale per week (depending on weight of the bale). It is very important that you make sure there is fresh water available at all times.

If you are boarding, will your horse live in a pasture, an outside stall or a box stall. Each boarding facility is different and will offer options such as training, feeding (schedule and supplements), turn out, stall cleaning, etc. The cost can vary between $50 on up to $2,000. Call around and find out all your options so you have a clear idea of how much boarding will cost you.

Healthcare:
Vaccinations - $20-$100 every 6-12 months. This will depend on if you will be giving them yourself or calling the vet.
Worming - $4-$12 every 6-8 weeks
Hoof care - $10-$25 for trimming and $40-$100 for shoes every 6-8 weeks.
Emergency veterinarian calls - Make sure you have funds set aside for those unforeseen emergencies.

Pre Purchase Veterinarian Exam: Although this may seem like an unnecessary expense at first this is highly recommended for any buyer as it could save you thousands in the long run. This cost can range from $100 to $500. For a pleasure horse expect it to be on the lower end but if you are looking for a competitive horse that needs a more thorough examination this will be a little more expensive.

You will not be able to use the seller’s vet as this would be a conflict of interest. Ask around and find one that comes highly recommended. Be sure you are there for the exam as the vet will have questions in order to make a fully educated recommendation.

This is the person to trust in your final decision so listen to what he/she has to say. It is very easy to fall in love with a horse but if the vet feels that there is something wrong or that this is not the horse for you, keep looking. There is sure to be the perfect horse out there for you.

Tack, Stable Tools and Grooming Supplies:

Tack
Saddle - $500-$2000
Saddle Pad - $40-$200
Bridle - $50-$200
Halter - $10-$100

Stable Tools
Stable Fork $20-$30
Wheel Barrow $50-$150

Grooming Supplies
Body Brush & Mane/Tail Brush
Curry Comb
Hoof Pick
Shampoo/Conditioner
Sweat Scrapper
Sponge
Total cost of these grooming supplies can range from $50 to $80

There are ways to cut these cost by finding tack stores that offer second hand tack or purchasing online through discount horse supplies.

As you can see there are many costs involved when buying a first horse and must be considered when purchasing your first horse. When budgeting for a horse, the initial cost is not the only consideration you must make but the monthly cost of the horse as well. Plan ahead and know the costs involved so that your horse owning experience will be a lifelong enjoyable and fulfilling journey.

Whether you’re a horse owner, hope to own one someday, or just has a love for horses, my goal here is to help you achieve all you desire towards your knowledge with our equine friends. I encourage you to leave a comment by clicking on the comment box at the end of each article. Perhaps you have story to share, enjoy an article, have a question or even if it’s just to say hi and tell us a little about yourself and where you’re from as it would be great to hear from you. And now, I’d like to share little of my journey with you.

Like many of you I have loved horse all of my life and can remember the day I got my first horse like it was yesterday. I have now owned horses for 22 years and have had the privilege of having them in my backyard for 20 of those. This has been a wonderful hobby and I have tried things like showing halter, western pleasure showing, competitive trail riding, cow sorting, team penning, 4H horse leader and have now been a member of a drill team for the past 10 years.

In case you’re wondering, yes that’s me in the picture on my now 19 year old Arab carrying the flag in the state that I reside in, California, U.S.A. Besides my children, he is the love of my life. I caught him out of his mama and he has been by my side ever since. Unfortunately I feel it’s time to give him a break from the drill and I am now starting 3 new projects. I have 2 mustangs and the quarter horse you see pictured above. They are all coming 3 and I sure have my hands full!

This is a new blog and just like starting these new babies of mine I’m going to enjoy every step of the way. Another goal I have is to not only share some of my knowledge but to gain some from you as well. There is so much more in store and I would sure love for you to come along for a nice long trail ride to talk about the love in our lives.

This exercise is best done with a snaffle bit, but any bit will work as long as you remember to have soft hands. Let’s start by understanding the term “direct” and “indirect” rein. The “direct” rein is the one you are directly pulling his mouth with. The “indirect” rein in the one you press on his neck.

Use two hands on the reins and try to keep them about a foot apart. Sit comfortably in the center of your saddle and squeeze with your legs lightly while at the same time begin to pull the horses’ head with your direct rein (left). As soon as his head begins to move to the left, press the indirect rein (right) gently on the horses’ neck.

Have him walk a few steps to the left and then stop. Do this same exercise to the right by squeezing, direct rein (right), then indirect rein (left). Repeat this 10 times in each direction and repeat this every day for about a week.

By now your horse should have an idea as to what you are asking him to do. The next step will be walking him in a square. You start off by walking a few steps and then asking him to turn left with your direct and indirect rein but do not stop. Walk about 10 steps and then ask him to turn left again.

Keep turning until you have reached your starting point then repeat to the right. Make 3 or 4 squares in each direction and repeat this every day for a week. Remember, repetition and consistency will affect your success.

When your horse is comfortable with the square exercise at the walk, begin doing it at a trot. This is where your horse will really learn to neck rein. Do this at a trot for a few weeks until you feel your horse is following the reins easily and without any stress.

When this is achieved begin to mix it up. Walk a line and turn left, turn left again, then turn right, and right again. The goal here is to get your horse to pay attention to you and not anticipate the turns. Keep doing these exercises every day for a few more weeks.

You should now be ready to do this at a slow lope. Repeat these exercises until your horse is consistent and comfortable. Once this is accomplished begin riding with one hand. He may be confused at first but remember repetition and consistency will get the job done.

Now let’s talk about what your legs are doing during these exercises. Horses move away from pressure. Your hands are directing the front of your horse while your legs are directing the back of your horse.

When you are asking his head to move to the left, you will want his back end to move to the right. To make this happen you place pressure with your left leg so that his rear is moving away from the pressure. Be sure to remove the pressure so that he doesn’t keep moving.

Some horses are very sensitive and react quickly to this pressure and move too far to the right. To prevent this from happening be ready to apply pressure with your right leg to move him back into a straight line.

As I keep emphasizing there are many ways to accomplish the same goal. Ask 10 trainers how to do this and you will get 10 different answers. Your task is to find what works for you and your horse. Find out more techniques through these great horse training guides to help you achieve your goal. Remember; never stop learning about your passion.

A ’spooky’ horse is sometimes labeled a problem horse but with training it is possible to get him over his fears. Have you ever been on the ground looking up at your horse and think “I need a bomb proof horse!”?

I have, it was my first horse and it was a slightly windy day when along came a plastic bag and blew right under her. Well, she shot straight up in the air and I was thrown so far out of the saddle that when I came down, she went one way and I went straight down to the ground.

Whether you have experienced this situation or not, I’m hoping this article will help you in understanding how to avoid this situation.

There is a saying, “There are no problem horses, only problem trainers”. In bomb proofing a horse there are different opinions on how to achieve this goal. Some believe that you should tie a horse up and just start throwing things at him. This does not work!

I know as this was what I was told to do when I was trying to solve this problem with my first horse. After 22 years, I strongly believe that patience is the key to success in any problem horse training. The process of bomb proofing your horse is to help him overcome his fear. This process is also referred to as “desensitizing” or “sacking out”.

Some items that your horse will need to get used to are: plastic bags, plastic tarps, mud puddles, bridges, loud noises, flags, balloons and yes, even umbrellas. Have you ever gone out to feed in the rain with an umbrella?

Starting with a plastic bag, show him the bag and get a feel for what he is going to do. He may snort and blow and possibly back away but get it as close to him as possible without him blowing up and stand quietly. Let him come to you and the bag.

Once you see that he is accepting the situation and he inches closer give him lots of praise. This is where patience comes in, it may take several sessions before you will be able to touch him with it but when you see improvement from the previous session, stop. Always end your session on a good note and don’t push him farther than you think he will allow. Your goal is to rub the bag all over his body.

I have used this method time and time again with positive results but as anyone will tell you, there are many ways to train a horse. Take a look at these horse training guides that can give you a different perspective and are extremely helpful in solving any problem you may be having with your horse.

The definition of Natural Horsemanship is the philosophy of working, riding and training a horse by appealing to their herd mentality and instincts in an easy and kind manner. This method has become very popular in the past two decades and has slowly replaced inhumane practices used in some methods of training. The ultimate goal is to have a calmer, happier and more willing equine partner. 

As you train your horse, it can be frustrating when you are not sure how to communicate to your horse what you are asking of him. I have been there many times in my 22 years of horse ownership and have searched for answers through the many trainers out there with all of their various horse training methods. 

Horses are a herd animal and if you watch them in their natural habitat, it would help you to understand much of their behavior. A day in the life of a horse will consist of eating, sleeping, playing, grooming each other and vying for position in their herd. Most people think the stallion is the leader of the group when in fact it is the lead mare that makes all the decisions. She decides when they eat or sleep and dishes out the discipline when any horse gets out of control. This is all done through her body language. Imitating the “alpha” mare’s behavior will help you in any aspect of handling your horse.  

Through this concept, it is possible for anyone to learn how to connect with their horse. For years I have read, watched videos and attended seminars of many trainers whose horse training methods I believe in and have found what works best for me.

The key to any successful training program is finding what will get you the results you desire. Horse training guides are a great way to learn more about your passion. There is one I especially like as it uses natural horsemanship techniques in a series of videos. Don’t miss it!

Problem horse training is a matter of educating the owner to help them solve whatever problem they may be having with their horse. The reason the horse is having a problem is not because he was born that way or has decided to act that way to frustrate their owner.

Horses do not act mean or rude because they want to, they don’t think that way. They are only reacting to a situation in which they do not understand. It is the responsibility of the horse owner to learn how to get a positive reaction through their problem horse training by understanding how to communicate on a level the horse will understand.

All too often the owner misinterprets situations and tries to solve it the only way they can think of and soon it develops into a larger problem. Take for example a horse that throws their head or rears. The solution would be to put a tie-down on him, right? This is the obvious solution but what if the horse then responds by becoming more unmanageable. The owner becomes frustrated and eventually will feel they have no other choice but to send the horse down the road. This horse is then labeled as a problem horse and will be treated as such.

This same horse might then be in the hands of a new owner whose problem horse training solution is to use heavy hands, sometimes to the point of physically abusing them. The problem then escalates until the horse feels he constantly has to defend himself. This horse now not only has the head tossing or rearing problem but he now kicks bites, strikes, and bucks. The horse is then considered rank and ends up at the killers.

This may seem like an extreme example but it happens more often than you would like to know. This whole scenario could have been avoided if the original owner took the time to learn problem horse training through patience and understanding. My point is, stop, take your time and think about what you are doing with your horse. Try to understand what your horse is telling you through his reactions. Back up and try again. If something doesn’t work, take a different approach and never lose your temper. There is a way to achieve your goal if you present the task in a different manner.

If you have a problem horse, do not approach the situation by saying “My horse has a problem” but by asking, “How can I relate what I want in a way he can understand?” The key is to educate yourself. Read, watch videos, go to seminars, do everything you can to help you understand how to communicate with your horse. Learn how to solve your problem horse and you will be pleasantly surprised how it will help strengthen the bond between you.

1. Walk Quietly - A horse should walk beside you calmly while paying attention to you at all times. When you ask your horse to back up, or step to the side he should do so willingly without any resistance. He shouldn’t pull you, drag you, hang back or push into you. Teaching your horse to lead properly is the basis for almost every other aspect of good manners.

2. Stand Tied Quietly - Standing quietly while tied, whether to a post, beside a trailer, a tree or in cross ties is essential. You’ll want to tie your horse to groom, clean hoofs, tack up, harness up, or just to keep him safely out of the way while you attend to other matters. This horse training tip is very important as your horse will spend a lot of time tied and a fidgety horse can be a danger to anyone around him.

3. Allows to be Caught - Whether your horse is in a stall or out to pasture, it is vital your horse can be caught quietly. There is nothing more frustrating than having planned an hour of riding, training or any other activity and have that time taken up chasing after your horse because he doesn’t want to be caught. Things can get dangerous if your horse feels cornered and the only escape is running over you. Learn horse training tips to help you overcome this issue.

4. Allow to Be Touched All Over - Your horse should let you touch every part of his body. Often ears, muzzle, sheath or udder, between legs, and chest are sensitive spots that many horses object to having handled. But these areas need to be cleaned, or dressed if they are injured. Teach your horse to have these areas groomed and touched.

5. Load into a Trailer - A horse that won’t load in a trailer quietly isn’t just frustrating—it can be dangerous. You may not plan to leave your property with your horse but that doesn’t mean he shouldn’t learn to get in a trailer. Emergencies can happen and you may have to take your horse to the vet. Often horses who don’t lead well, also don’t load well.

Teach your horse these ground manners and you will see an improvement in all aspects of handling and riding your horse. If you have a horse you enjoy being around, you will be rewarded with a bond like no other.

When trailer training a horse the ideal situation would be to start them at a very young age so when they see a trailer it’s just a normal everyday event. Unfortunately not everyone has that luxury and usually gets a horse that has already had a bad experience with a trailer.

It usually means they have been forced into a trailer with an impatient owner or maybe tossed around during the drive and had to scramble to keep standing which made them fearful. There are some horses that just simply refuse to get in because they can. Whatever their past experience is, it doesn’t change the fact that they won’t get in.

Do a lot of ground work such as working in the round pen to help establish that status. Once you have gained that trust and respect it will be much easier to ask the horse to work through his fear.

This is also true with the disobedient horse that just refuses to get into the trailer. If you have set basic ground rules for the horse to follow, trailer training will be less stressful.

Try to stay calm but forceful in what you are asking him to do. The horse will feed off the energy you put forth if you fight with him. This will only make him stronger and more willing to refuse what you are asking of him.

Instead, keep his mind off of what the task at hand is, loading in the trailer, and ask him to back, halt, walk forward, halt, etc. Then walk him around to give him a chance to calm down then start over.

There are several techniques to use when trailer training a horse. The trick is to find the one that works for you. I have had many experiences with these techniques in my twenty-two years of owning horses and realize what a challenge it is but it can be done with patience and knowledge.